In the very south of Albania, on the coast of the azure Ionian Sea, stretches the beautiful town of Sarande. During summertime, the city bursts with tourists. Yet few venture beyond the tall newly built hotels and alluring beaches. However, the begging children on the streets remain a palpable reminder of another, perhaps less decorated and sparkly reality that exists just next door.
The road through the Cuka village is dirty and bumpy. An abandoned bus marks the end of the suburb. Unsurprisingly it serves as a playground for a bunch of Gypsy kids. As the car of church aid workers pulls up, they come out running and shouting, smiles adorning their precious little faces.
An extended family of forty or so Gypsies lives in the village. As the little ones grow up, life doesn’t seem to bring many changes. At first sight, the community seems to be entrapped by the merciless laws of poverty and ostracization. Sadly, Albanian society commonly nourishes racist beliefs. The Caucasian majority more often than not considers itself of “more noble blood” (echoing notions that less than a century ago brought much misery to the whole Europe) and unscrupulously looks down on the darker skinned Gypsies. Unfortunately, segregation starts from an early age; children are ridiculed in the public schools, thus the parents often pull them out and entrust them to “street school.” Unable to receive education, later on in life they struggle to find a vocation in a country where jobs are not readily available. Without a job and with a family to feed, alternative sources of income are being sought, such as sending children to beg on the streets. And more children are being born into the cycle of destitution. One can only wonder – is there a way to break the clutches of poverty?
There are a handful of faithful Albanians and expatriates who have been faithfully visiting Cuka and implementing educational and aid programmes. It would be easy to get frustrated when an irresponsible father sells a donated stove for booze; it would be natural to get disappointed when the people request prescription after prescription to be filled in order to get unneeded medications; it would be natural to quit when today appears to be exactly like yesterday, yet they persevere.
Saranda is in no way unique – most cities in the world have poor neighbourhoods. The question is whether we dare to look at what’s just around the corner.
